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Atsuko
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« on: November 06, 2009, 05:40:11 AM » |
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I have been doing some research on training with power and came across with 3 options - power tap, trainer with watts capability and computer trainer. 1. Power tap - can be used on real roads, so very useful once the real training starts, but expensive. ($1300.00 via eBay) Can you use it indoors? 2. Trainer with watts - cheapest of all but still costs about $700.00 (tacx flow). Only for indoors but portable. 3. Computer trainer - the most expensive ($1700.00 USD), set up and figuring out the device is complicated. Only used for indoors but you can buy race specific course videos. I need as many opinions on these gadgets as possible. So If you have any wisdom to share, please do so. thanks
Atsuko
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Andrew
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« Reply #1 on: November 10, 2009, 07:27:29 AM » |
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I think Atsuko's summary of the different wattage devices is quite good. There are pros and cons of each system.
For us, the key has always been cost and reliability, which the TACX satisfies on both accounts. I do have two Computrainers, which I picked up used, form a friend who takes old ones and refurbishes them. I don't have it set up with video, but do know this could make some of the long rides a little less onerous. Having said that, I prefer watching real movies, and Ginny prefers listening to club music, so our TACX trainers work just fine for us.
My personal opinion about the Power Tap and SRM, is that they are neither cost effective nor reliable, but I will admit to limited experience with both systems. The added value of having the data with you on the road, is hindered by the fact, that it is very difficult to maintain steady wattage outside, and hence the data is nearly impossible to assess. This is why we much prefer using HR to gauge intensity during open road training sessions, where we control output by responding to what teh body is doing, rather than what the power meter is reading.
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Atsuko
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« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2009, 12:12:02 PM » |
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Hi, Andrew
Just to let you know that after some research on those gears, I ended up purchasing Tacx Flow through eBay. (I haven't received it yet.) My decision was made based on its affortdability and my strong feeling that a wattage trainer will satisfy my need for training this winter. I heard, though, that putting a trainer togeter would be the hardest part. Is it true?
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Tamara Dantzer
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« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2009, 10:38:33 AM » |
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Hi:)
I just thought I'd chime in here- I bought a tacx flow last year and it wasn't until you asked about the assembly that I even remembered that I had to put it together.
I would say your assessment was correct- putting it together was the hardest part but on the other hand I had forgotten how it was a bit of a hassle- so it couldn't have been that bad...right?
I would expect though to set aside some time to do it- not to expect to just pull it out and spend 10 minutes. hopefully that helps and doesn't just muddy the waters for you.
btw congrats on the new trainer- I bet you'll love it:)
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kiwichris
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« Reply #4 on: November 12, 2009, 01:11:51 PM » |
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Hi Atsuko - you have made the right decision - I would have parroted Andrew's comments in terms of cost and usability whilst training.
In terms of putting the Tacx together - make sure you read the instructions first - have the right tools before you start - and it should go together in about 30 mins max.
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Andrew
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« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2009, 12:11:57 AM » |
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It is not rocket science, but it did take me quite a while the first time I put one together. The biggest challenge is getting the little quick release together properly. I can certainly help at the next EESS if you bring it along. I have put so many together, that it has become fairly routine, but I do remember some choice words being exchanged the first time around.
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Atsuko
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« Reply #6 on: November 28, 2009, 04:07:21 AM » |
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Just received my tacx flow yesterday. I'm all excited with my new toy. I'll bring it to Salmon Arm next Saturday, so you can help me putting it altogether.
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Atsuko
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« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2009, 10:56:42 AM » |
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Well, I managed to put it together. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. However, I am having a problem with calibration. When I did the test, it says +20. I played the braking knob around but it didn't seem to be making any difference. It still says +20. I looked up Tacx website but it doesn't have any info. What do I do now? Any suggestions?
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Andrew
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« Reply #8 on: November 28, 2009, 04:29:09 PM » |
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You have to ensure the screw on the back side of the knob is actually threaded into the cylinder that allows for adjustment of the tension...this was the "tough" part of the assembly that I mentioned, that most people don't figure out the first few times they try. Turn the unit over, and look very closely where the screw is positioned. It takes some fiddling. If you don;t get it, bring it for Mike to fix for you this week-end in Salmon Arm. Unfortunately I will not be there, as I am running a course in Ontario for horse trainers.
If my explanation does not make sense, let me know, and I will try to send you a photo of what I mean tomorrow night.
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Atsuko
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« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2009, 12:27:44 PM » |
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Hi, Andrew I did reassembly the unit and made sure the screw was threaded into the cylinder and unfortunately it keeps calibrating +20 . I am going to take it to EESS this Saturday to have Mike to look at it.  |
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Andrew
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« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2009, 12:20:10 AM » |
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I must admit I have never seen this problem before.
One last thing to try...back off the tension between the tire and the wheel, until there is just enough pressure on the tire to prevent it from slipping while pedaling. One way to do this is to back it off until you can see a gap between the tire and roller, and then tighten it just a couple of turns.
See if that helps change the calibration number.
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Atsuko
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« Reply #11 on: November 30, 2009, 02:03:15 PM » |
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One more question. What am I supposed to do if brake indicator starts flashing either after the bars go down or up?
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Daniel Auger
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« Reply #12 on: November 30, 2009, 02:53:49 PM » |
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If you have ''full'' solid bar flashing that means the trainer’s brake is overpowering the energy you produce.
Solution: you need to decrease the trainer’s resistance or increase your power output (bigger gear and/or faster cadence).
If you have an ''empty'' bar flashing that means you are overpowering the trainer’s brake.
Solution: you need to increase the trainer’s resistance or decrease your power output.
You want to aim at having one or two solid bars at the bottom. That mean you have a good balance between the trainer’s resistance and the power you generate.
Enjoy.
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